From the Ground Up
Wine people say that wine is made in the vineyard. You can make bad wine out of good grapes, but it is hard to make great wine out of mediocre raw material. Wine is one of the few consumer products with such a tight connection to time and place. If you read the front and back labels closely, you will often discover where the wine grapes were grown—sometimes down to particular vineyard blocks—as well as who made the wine, how, and when. That’s more specific information than you get for almost any other quotidian consumer good.
Wine starts in the vineyards, so we start our tour with Dick Boushey ’73, widely recognized as one of the most important wine growers in Washington State and one of the most respected wine professionals in America. You won’t find Boushey wine on store shelves because he doesn’t make wine. He’s a farmer. But you will find his name in the fine print of many of Washington’s best wines, which are made from the grapes that he tends.
Boushey is especially recognized for his contributions to sustainable wine growing. There is more than one way to grow grapes. Conventional viticulture uses a variety of chemical tools to fight insects and disease in grape production, for example. Organic viticulture takes a “do no harm” approach by limiting the types and quantities of chemicals involved. Sustainable viticulture is a broader concept that takes other factors into account depending upon local or regional conditions and priorities. The goal is to produce good fruit from healthy vines in sustainable, resilient environments, something that is especially important in a time of climate change.
Tom Hedges ’73 is well known for this at Hedges Family Estates winery on Red Mountain. Visitors love the wine and are captivated by the beautiful chateau and expansive vistas while they enjoy the great wine. My wife, Sue, and I pay special attention to the vineyards, too, because Hedges practices a form of farming called biodynamics. It was invented by the Austrian philosopher Rudolf Steiner, the creator of the Waldorf education style. Biodynamic viticulture aims to go beyond “do no harm” by actively energizing healthy natural processes; it draws upon traditional practices such as aligning farming practices with phases of the moon and spraying the vines with special organic preparations. Healthy vines, healthy wines, healthy environment—these are the goals of biodynamic viticulture at Hedges and in a growing number of outstanding vineyards around the world.
Regenerative agriculture is the leading edge in farming today, and you won’t be surprised that our alumni are working in this field, too. Regenerative agriculture is a holistic approach to farming that fosters healthy soil, ecosystems, and communities. Regenerative practices foster biodiversity and living organisms literally from the ground up, and they support a healthy balance of nature that often seems too hard to find in today’s unbalanced world. Calla Rose Ostrander ’05 is a leading figure in the movement through her work with Terra Regenerative Capital, an impact fund channeling investment into regenerative farming projects.
In the Winery
Grapes really want to be wine. In fact, the native yeasts that are needed to start fermentation naturally cling to the grape skins. If you just leave the grapes alone, you will get wine. Or you will get vinegar. Science and attention to detail are needed to make good grapes into good wine. So perhaps it is fitting that some science alumni have found their calling making wine. Biology major Alison Frichtl Hollister ’04, for example, is senior winemaker for Hall Family Wines in Napa Valley. Physics major Stewart Boedecker ’90 makes wine at his Boedecker Cellars in Portland.
David Rosenthal ’01 majored in biology and has made wine in Washington, Oregon, California, Australia, and New Zealand. He was the head white wine maker at Chateau Ste. Michelle for many years and is now principal at Partnership Wine Consulting, where he advises some of the Northwest’s best wineries.
Our alumni show that while a science degree is useful in winemaking, it is not a necessary requirement. Forensic sociology student Joe Davis ’82, for example, was inspired when he tasted a particular wine while working part-time at a local wine shop. That started him down the road that led to his founding Arcadian Winery on California’s Central Coast. Chuck Reininger ’82 studied business and marketing and then went “to the heights” as a mountain guide before founding Reininger Winery and Helix Wines in Walla Walla, Wash., with his wife Tracy Tucker ’81.
The Business of Wine
There is a joke in the wine business: How do you make a small fortune in wine? Easy. Start with a large one. Making great wine is sometimes not enough to make a successful winery. Business skills and entrepreneurial instincts are important, too.
The business side of wine has become more challenging—and therefore more important—in recent years as costs have risen throughout the supply chain; at the same time, consumers have become hesitant to pay more because they are squeezed by high interest rates and inflation pressures generally. A successful wine business needs to combine good wine with sound business practices.
Michael Corliss ’82 is one of my favorite wine business examples. Corliss didn’t start out to make wine. He started out drinking wine, which evolved into collecting wine. Before too long, he had a vineyard and then a winery, too. Today Michael and Lauri Corliss’ wine businesses include vineyards in Walla Walla, Red Mountain, the Columbia Valley, and the Columbia Gorge, plus the Corliss Estates, Tranche Cellars, Secret Squirrel wines, and San Juan Vineyards wineries. In addition, they also operate Walla Walla Wine Services, a custom crush and wine bottling business that assists others with winemaking needs, helping spur the growth of the Washington industry.
Amanda Reynvaan ’00 also works in Walla Walla wine. She is director of operations at her family’s highly rated Reynvaan Family Vineyards. She is also a co-owner of Result of a Crush Winery, which she started with her sister Angela Reynvaan Garratt.
Several other Puget Sound alumni focus on the business side of wine. Skylar Stuck ’83, for example, pivoted from an economics career to the world of wine in California’s Central Coast region, helping to guide Bonny Doon Vineyard, Halter Ranch Winery, and Hope Family Wines. He is now director of sales and operations at Hearst Ranch Winery. I remember Devinder (Dev) Sidhu ’94 from my international economics class at Puget Sound. His career in wine included work as a manager for direct wine sales at Cakebread Cellars. He is currently director at Valley Wine Warehouse, a company that provides important services to the wine industry in Napa, Calif.